South Towards Real de Catorce

     Left Saltillo heading south towards Matehuala. Matehuala which means "Don't Come" is where they invented those exaggerated cowboy boots with toes as long as water skis.  What a macho fashion statement!


  Matehuala Botas Picudas

  Matehuala Botas

      The day was clear and hot. The desert a vast silent strange wilderness of truth and prophecy. It was desolate except for the constant current of tractor trailers. By 11:00 AM hunger overcame us but there seemed to be nothing until we passed a forest of graying sculptures,,, with food! The sculptures were the hook. The barbacue was buried behind the forest of mexican and religious images in a shed with a corrugated tar paper roof, a 55 gallon drum served as the brazier. There were three other guys eating. I wandered through the sculptures rapt with glee all the while thinking about all the eccentric roadside delights I have seen over the years but never in such a stark setting. As a marketing tool I have seen cars pegged onto tall poles, planes atop restaurants,,, inland seafood restaurants that resemble boats, giant hotdogs, and fruits,,, all manner of kitsch,, but this possessed a remote artistic element. These objects had not been moved in many years. Some of the body parts had rotted and were falling off, but placed reverently upon their bases,,,  leprosy recovery patrol. I knew these were not for sale but there for the eternal folkloric moment when commerce meets the unusual. 

    We entered the "restaurant area" blackened with smoke. It was like a coal mine. The owner was turning beef and chicken on the home made grill. I thought his face just didn't go with the decor. He was somewhat clean, balding, blondish, and light skinned with a little pot belly. He might have been taken for a lawyer with a suit and in another setting. Towards the back chubby Ricardo was masticating a piece of beef while standing up.  Another two gents were seated finishing their plates. Buenas Dias all around and with that everything was mexican soothed. When we got down to eating we found the cecina and chicken muy sabroso. 
     On to Real de Catorce...........